ForgeCorvus wrote:The only reason the P's choose an Aga was because Dad bought one at Scrap value, it was in the 60's when people were ripping "Old Fashioned Junk" out and fitting "Nice Modern Stuff" in..... The same 60's NMS that people are ripping out and replacing with things their Grannie grew up with
The Aga (and its replacement Raburn) fed/feed a hot water tank thats directly above and three feet to the left of the range, just like the system that Preparedsurrey was talking about.
Handy: I don't suppose your chimney is in the centre of the house is it?
Damm it, now I'm doodling floor plans for the future prepstead
totally makes sense using these stoves as u can cook,heat water and radiators all in one go.as im building off grid makes even more sense
re:chimney.ive built the house with no actual old style chimney stack as im just going to 'pipe' it through the wall.havent actually decided where its going yet
im at the stage of the build where the building is watertight (but still awaiting tiles when I can be arsed)
been lucky enough to get all rads ,piping etc for free and stove was cheap but complete.think its from 40s or 50s...ish
I'm sure Building Regs come into this. Just had a new Gas Boiler fitted and that came under building regs.
“A nation of sheep will beget a government of wolves.” ― Edward R. Murrow
"Remember Politicians are like babies diapers they both need changing often for the very same reason" - Mark Twain
If voting changed anything, they'd make it illegal.
I guess you will be using a modern double insulated metal chimney? if you are I would keep as much of it indoors as possible to get the most out of the heat it gives out. I've never seen one used in the UK but it fairly simple to rig up a heat exchanger system in the chimney to get more heat out, as long as you don't cool the stack too much then formation of creosote isn't a problem. Even putting a simple fan behind the chimney will heat the room in a very short time.
If I had the luxury of starting a fresh I would consider a waste oil burner as a secondary or primary heating method - I know it's not green but the fuel can be had for free and in a SHTF scenario it's not a resource many other people would be able to make use of unlike kero for example and it requires less space to store than wood.
Fitting the stove yourself you will need to get the install signed off by building control or certified by a hetas installer, building control can be very very helpful especially if you get someone who has actually done the job them selves rather than learning it all from a rule book. Solid fuel installation isn't difficult to get right and the regs aren't difficult to comply with.
If guns are outlawed then only the outlaws will have guns....
From a heating efficency point of view.
Brick chimneys are better then pipe, as the entire stack acts as a storage heater.
If you are going with pipe (and it looks like you're going to have to), you need to have the maximum run inside the house for heat exchange reasons.
Either way, a central location for the flue is better then on an outer wall.
I don't know how this stacks up relative to Building Regs though
jennyjj01 wrote:"I'm not in the least bit worried because I'm prepared: Are you?"
Londonpreppy wrote: At its core all prepping is, is making sure you're not down to your last sheet of loo roll when you really need a poo.
yeah building regs are that there has to be an air input at the hearth area and external flue etc has to be above highest level of highest window
other than that its pretty much common sense (if oil heating then must be condensing boiler)
last house I built and sold I never even put a stove in so people who bought it could put it where they wanted.
that's the good thing about stove/range,they can go pretty much anywhere as you aren't tied to a built masonry chimney stack
yeah good idea keeping as much steel flue pipe internal to 'milk' as much heat as possible!
ive decided on the way to do it now so see how it goes.
(I have built over a dozen houses but usually sub contract this sort of thing but I like a challenge!)
Just had a thought if you do want to use a pump for the rads then an auxillary water pump from a car (the sort that circulate water round the car heater) would be a good choice if you want 12v and reliable simplicity, just make sure the piping to the hot water tank will still function as a thermosyphon. Also if you can use 28mm or larger pipe rather than 22mm on your main gravity circuit from the boiler to hot water cylinder, it really does work a lot better.
That stove will be set up for imperial pipe + fittings too I would have thought so you might need to be prepared for some messing about.
You can vent air into the room under the floor and have it coming out just in front of the hearth to minimise draughts, although from my memory of the build regs you only need a vent if the fire/ stove is above a certain power output?
If guns are outlawed then only the outlaws will have guns....
preparedsurrey wrote:Just had a thought if you do want to use a pump for the rads then an auxillary water pump from a car (the sort that circulate water round the car heater) would be a good choice if you want 12v and reliable simplicity, just make sure the piping to the hot water tank will still function as a thermosyphon. Also if you can use 28mm or larger pipe rather than 22mm on your main gravity circuit from the boiler to hot water cylinder, it really does work a lot better.
That stove will be set up for imperial pipe + fittings too I would have thought so you might need to be prepared for some messing about.
You can vent air into the room under the floor and have it coming out just in front of the hearth to minimise draughts, although from my memory of the build regs you only need a vent if the fire/ stove is above a certain power output?
thanks i'll look into 12v car pump but had a 12v boat type pump in mind used for heating on larger boats.
I'll defo consider using larger diameter piping.hoping to use all copper but may have to use cheaper alternative
original plans had air vent so I may as well put it in as is no hassle atm but id hate to have to put it in at later finished stage if building inspector insists
I can always put valve/controller on it anyway
You can probably get away with doing the first couple of feet out of the boiler in copper and the rest in poly pipe just beware the inserts dramatically reduce the flow.
If guns are outlawed then only the outlaws will have guns....
preparedsurrey wrote:You can probably get away with doing the first couple of feet out of the boiler in copper and the rest in poly pipe just beware the inserts dramatically reduce the flow.
yeah defo gonna have to use polypipe or similar due to ridiculous price of copper (£20 for 3mtre length/screwfix 32mm)with first metre or so into and out of boiler in copper as per regs
may use 32mm for main pipes so hopefully the insert/liners shouldn't affect it too much
(am resisting temptation to use load of old 2"+ pipes I got out of old hospital when they were delomishing,its iron though but in great condition for being ancient!)
Screwfix aren't cheap and chances are that price is for 2m rather than 3. My local plumbers merchants were the cheapest by far last time I needed some large bore copper. The iron stuff you would need die nuts to thread the ends for the unions, I think it should flow well though!
If guns are outlawed then only the outlaws will have guns....
