Push bikes weight limits and luggage

[Frnc]

Was just looking at some info re Norco bikes, but I guess the general principles apply to most bikes.

They divide their bikes into "conditions". This may relate to international specs.

Condition 1 High-Performance Road, road use only
Max weight Rider 125kg, luggage 4.5 kg

Condition 2 General Purpose "For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in good condition, and bike paths"
Max weight Rider 136 kg, luggage 14 kg. "For touring or trekking luggage 25kg". I assume this means bikes designated as touring or trekking bikes.

Condition 3 Cross-Country, Marathon, Hardtails
"Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1 and 2, plus rough trails, small obstacles, and smooth technical areas, including areas where momentary loss of tire contact with the ground may occur. NOT jumping. All mountain bikes without rear suspension are Condition 3, and so are some lightweight rear suspension models."
Max weight Rider 136 kg luggage 2.3 kg seat bag only
"Front suspension frames manufactured with original equipment seat stay and dropout rack mounts only" Rider 136 kg luggage 25kg.

Condition 4 All Mountain, Condition 5 downhill etc
Rider 136 kg, Luggage 2.3

So, best option is a touring bike or a hardtail with rack mounts in the dropouts. I got the latter, so fitting the rear rack only involved buying a seat clamp with holes for the upper rack says to be screwed in (I'd already taken out the hydraulic dropper anyway.) Next best is General Purpose.

My rear rack is a Topeak Explorer Non Disc Without Spring. I was advised to get the non-disc version even though I have disc brakes. Some disc brakes presumably would need the disc version. Weight capacity 26kg. weight 840g. Ones with spring weigh more.

Front rack is Topeak Tetrarack M1, straps on the forks. Capacity 10kg. 910g . Was worried about the tyre clearance when I fitted it, as it can't go quite as high as I'd like, or it's supposed to, due to the way the forks are made. But it's not budged in a year, and I've even lifted the front of the bike by it on occasion. And I only intend to load it with 6-8kg.

Rear Panniers are the cheaper Ortlieb Back Roller City, 2 x 20 litres, 2 x 760g.

Front are Altura Vortex Ultralite 2 x 15 litres, 2 x 260g.

Also I have a cylinder-shaped bag sold for motorcyclists, that can strap on top of the rear rack.

I'm probably not officially supposed to have the front rack, but the total weight of rack and panniers is only about 1.4 kg and the total contents about 6-8kg. The weight is on the lower leg, so shouldn't affect the suspension.

Also have a folding lock and three bottle cages. The lock is strapped under the down tube. One bottle cage is on the handlebar.

[Yorkshire Andy]

So for UK conditions class 4 at all times I've ridden smoother downhill runs Vs the main high Street

[Frnc]

So for UK conditions class 4 at all times I've ridden smoother downhill runs Vs the main high Street

Yeah, I know what you mean. I contacted the council about a couple of particularly bad ones when I had my Honda. Seriously dangerous.

[Frnc]

I was lucky, as I didn't know/think to check it had droput rack holes when I bought the bike. I guess you can buy racks that strap on the back, but they presumably aren't designed to carry as much weight there if they don't have the eyelets.

[Yorkshire Andy]

I was lucky, as I didn't know/think to check it had droput rack holes when I bought the bike. I guess you can buy racks that strap on the back, but they presumably aren't designed to carry as much weight there if they don't have the eyelets.

Guessing the best racks mounts I've had on a frame was a Kona very solid other thing you can do is replace the Chineseium bolts with decent 12.9 socket cap bolts

[Frnc]

I was lucky, as I didn't know/think to check it had droput rack holes when I bought the bike. I guess you can buy racks that strap on the back, but they presumably aren't designed to carry as much weight there if they don't have the eyelets.

Guessing the best racks mounts I've had on a frame was a Kona very solid other thing you can do is replace the Chineseium bolts with decent 12.9 socket cap bolts

Hmm.. had some spare bolts but no nuts. The 4 at the top for the stays are locking, but ordered a few for under £1.78 including delivery.

[XRS001]

This is my standard long distance/ shopping rig. I can haul 200kgs. Trolly is home built

https://flic.kr/p/2oaGdp7

[Frnc]

This is my standard long distance/ shopping rig. I can haul 200kgs. Trolly is home built

https://flic.kr/p/2oaGdp7

Nice. What happens if you have to ditch the bike, or do you think that's unlikely? I'm not very well up at bike maintenance, and my shifter died in the first week I had the new bike, so I spent a bit of time planning what I'd do. However since then someone posted a couple of fixes. I've made a note of them, but I need to watch some videos to understand it properly I think. I've had no shifter problems since then, by the way.

This is what they posted..

"Shifter / cable failure remove cable use the h and l screws to put it into a gear you can plod along on ..

Rear mech / derailleur failure remove dump tie up cable.. remove chain links to single speed middle back sprocket .. and plod on"

The shifter failure is straightforward. I have a 1 x 12 by the way so no front issue.
I can remove chain links.
I just need to figure out how to remove the derailleur.

Of course in a bugout situation it might not be easy to start doing bike repairs.

Anyway, I planned what do do if I had to ditch the bike, if I was on my own. My rucksack is only half full, with other gear in panniers. I'd have to try to fit it the panniers' contents into my rucksack and my Lomo bag, and strap the Lomo to the rucksak. Lomo is a fairly heavy duty tubular dry bag with attachment points, waterproof, designed to go on the back of motorbikes, but it's not a bad weight to capacity ratio. It weighs 420g and is 20 l. My rucksack is 1.45 kg and 50 l.

[Yorkshire Andy]

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I just need to figure out how to remove the derailleur.

Of course in a bugout situation it might not be easy to start doing bike repairs.

Remove cable then if it's on a drop out 5mm Alan key to undo

If it's the older / cheaper bike remove wheel nut and slacken 8mm pinch bolt

Either break the chain of your single speeding you'll have to anyway then unthreaded rear mech

Or remove lower jockey wheel 3/ 4mm alen key or 8mm spanner

[XRS001]

I do 95% of my own servicing.

If something breaks on the road it's not a huge problem I can usually rig a get by to get home.

I always carry a puncture repair kit and roadside puncture take me about 10 minutes to fix.

I have standardised the bike to 3 Allen keys & a posidrive screwdriver the trolley hitch is on 17# nuts and bolts.

The trolley is good for on an off road.