Reality kicking in..

[Frnc]

Once every few months I spray on some HG Mould Spray on the grout and silicone

I'm going to get some Dettol Mould and Mildew Spray from Wilkos. I could use the HG but I'll save that for the shower area. The silicone round the bottom is slightly discoloured, but it's over 10 years old. The problem is if it gets black mould on it you can never get it 100% gone.

We get black and pink mould in the tile grout and have to grind it out and regrout every year, which is a PITA. Nothing looks worse in a bathroom, but it's a constant battle. There's no vent and we ought to open the bathroom window, but we begrudge that.

Try Astonish Mould and Mildew Remover. from Home bargain or elsewhere. I don't know what's in it but it completely removes pink mould and slows down the black. You don't even need to wipe it off.

Have you noticed how black mould grows perfectly quickly in a stretchy shower hose? I have to take an electric toothbrush to that every week and the grunge that comes out!

Wouldn't cost much to get an extractor fitted.

[jennyjj01]

Wouldn't cost much to get an extractor fitted.

Yes. I should do that.
I did think that getting power to it is a bit of an obstacle because the bathroom is fully tiled.
But a quick check suggests that a shower fan in the ceiling could work, vented out through the soffit?

Bathroom electrics do demand a qualified person working to building regs, which obviously adds to the cost.

One for another day.

[Frnc]

Wouldn't cost much to get an extractor fitted.

Yes. I should do that.
I did think that getting power to it is a bit of an obstacle because the bathroom is fully tiled.
But a quick check suggests that a shower fan in the ceiling could work, vented out through the soffit?

Bathroom electrics do demand a qualified person working to building regs, which obviously adds to the cost.

One for another day.

The wiring for mine goes over the ceiling and down, but if yours is fully tiled, a ceiling fan makes more sense anyway. You can site it over the shower. I'm not sure how the venting is done exactly, it goes out somewhere, presumably at the bottom near the gutter. You need an electrician, yes. At least they don't need to drill a big hole in the wall. But they need to crawl about in the loft.

[jennyjj01]

Wouldn't cost much to get an extractor fitted.

One for another day.

The wiring for mine goes over the ceiling and down, but if yours is fully tiled, a ceiling fan makes more sense anyway. You can site it over the shower. I'm not sure how the venting is done exactly, it goes out somewhere, presumably at the bottom near the gutter. You need an electrician, yes. At least they don't need to drill a big hole in the wall. But they need to crawl about in the loft.

Over shower should be ideal, because we use shower over the bath and it's close to an outside wall.
It seems the over shower ones use a flexible pipe and an exit hole in the plastic behind the gutter.
It's a pity it needs to have an electrician on the case, because it's the sort of DIY that Mr J would relish and wiring looks dead easy. But there's enough of our dodgy workmanship for one lifetime. I might let him do the physical installing and just get the electrician in to wire it up.
The loft is a bit of a no-go zone for tradesmen. Too much of a prepper space for prying eyes.

[GillyBee]

Has anyone looked at "Positive Internal Ventilation systems"?
Ventaxia description here - and i am not recommending them, just using them to explain.
https://www.vent-axia.com/positive-input-ventilation
The loft is often the driest part of the house and air in there is warmer than outside (especialy if your insulation is not the best) so filtering it and sending it into the house does make sense. It has us wondering whether to try making a DIY version using vacuum cleaner filters and a computer fan.

[Frnc]

One for another day.

The wiring for mine goes over the ceiling and down, but if yours is fully tiled, a ceiling fan makes more sense anyway. You can site it over the shower. I'm not sure how the venting is done exactly, it goes out somewhere, presumably at the bottom near the gutter. You need an electrician, yes. At least they don't need to drill a big hole in the wall. But they need to crawl about in the loft.

Over shower should be ideal, because we use shower over the bath and it's close to an outside wall.
It seems the over shower ones use a flexible pipe and an exit hole in the plastic behind the gutter.
It's a pity it needs to have an electrician on the case, because it's the sort of DIY that Mr J would relish and wiring looks dead easy. But there's enough of our dodgy workmanship for one lifetime. I might let him do the physical installing and just get the electrician in to wire it up.
The loft is a bit of a no-go zone for tradesmen. Too much of a prepper space for prying eyes.

I might be wrong, but I'd assume the spark would need to wire up the appliance end. I guess Mr J could do that and just let the spark do the other end. Otherwise you need to get the spark out twice or let him go in the loft. I've no idea how easy it is to wire up the appliance end. It might be just like wiring up a plug (do people still do that these days?) I know my spark put my last extractor on the wrong way up, not saying that's why it broke but it could be. It had a humidity detector. Bad idea. The detector failed and it ran 24/7 untill it died.

[grenfell]

The loft is a bit of a no-go zone for tradesmen. Too much of a prepper space for prying eyes.

I might be wrong, but I'd assume the spark would need to wire up the appliance end. I guess Mr J could do that and just let the spark do the other end. Otherwise you need to get the spark out twice or let him go in the loft. I've no idea how easy it is to wire up the appliance end. It might be just like wiring up a plug (do people still do that these days?) I know my spark put my last extractor on the wrong way up, not saying that's why it broke but it could be. It had a humidity detector. Bad idea. The detector failed and it ran 24/7 untill it died.

I've found that a lot of extractor fans are wired i to the lighting circuits so they come on when the lights are switched on. That would involve getting up into the roof space. Unless you're storing the equilivelent of a small country's gold or weapons reserves most prepper stuff will just be "feckin' junk in the way" to most sparkies so I shouldn't worry too much. Going back to the electrics I've also found a lot of fans require two lives , one permanent and one switched so not as simple as wiring a plug. It doesn't sound as if it would affect you but runs of flexible ducting over two metres can suffer fromcondensation pooling in the pipe.

[jennyjj01]

The loft is a bit of a no-go zone for tradesmen. Too much of a prepper space for prying eyes.

I've found that a lot of extractor fans are wired i to the lighting circuits so they come on when the lights are switched on. That would involve getting up into the roof space. Unless you're storing the equilivelent of a small country's gold or weapons reserves most prepper stuff will just be "feckin' junk in the way" to most sparkies so I shouldn't worry too much. Going back to the electrics I've also found a lot of fans require two lives , one permanent and one switched so not as simple as wiring a plug. It doesn't sound as if it would affect you but runs of flexible ducting over two metres can suffer fromcondensation pooling in the pipe.

The Loft could give Spar a run for its money

Yes. it looks like a four wire from the ceiling light fitting. But there's stuff about isolator switches that needs to be taken care of. Sparkies won't usually sign off on DIY jobs, so the best we could do is install all the mechanical bits.

We'll have to have a bit of a tidy up there, lob a tarpaulin or something over the 'junk'

Our duct would be less than a meter.

[Frnc]

Onn a separate topic, the condensate pump for my new boiler ran for about 4 hours yesterday afternoon. Am I right in saying they are supposed to run for a few seconds or a couple of minutes? The noise was annoying. It's right below a lodger's room. He didn't complain. But it might blow up if it keeps doing that. I'll ring them tomorrow. I've not heard it since late afternoon yesterday, thankfully.

I need to remember to bury a bag of limestone chips around the outlet in the spring. It does have chips inside, but, belt and braces is always best.

[jennyjj01]

Onn a separate topic, the condensate pump for my new boiler ran for about 4 hours yesterday afternoon. Am I right in saying they are supposed to run for a few seconds or a couple of minutes? The noise was annoying. It's right below a lodger's room. He didn't complain. But it might blow up if it keeps doing that. I'll ring them tomorrow. I've not heard it since late afternoon yesterday, thankfully.

I need to remember to bury a bag of limestone chips around the outlet in the spring. It does have chips inside, but, belt and braces is always best.

A complete mystery to me how those combi's work. It surprises me if it was noisy and I'd be concerned if it was. Mine just purrs at its loudest. It seems to kick into some sort of overdrive when running the hot water and pushes out a lot of vapour then. The rest of the time it's on, just a bit of vapour or no vapour venting. Completely separate to that, or so it seems, the CH pump turns off and on for the radiators as the mood takes it. When it was fitted, the plumber buried what looked like a bucket under the patio and fed a pipe down to that? He said something about not just letting it run onto the flags because of staining?

A colder week ahead? Bu66er! Oh how it's changed since not needing the heating on at all in September.
This time last year I had to start heating the garage to let the freezers work. If it gets to that again, they'll have to come indoors.

Definitely getting away with turning off the CH earlier, now as early as 19:20 and the lounge still >20 at midnight.
Must shut the lounge door last thing.